The Electricians Inc.           

Service in Philadelphia Pa. & Surrounding Areas      Call : 215-9271100   for Immediate Service  Emergency Service . Licensed & Insured.


Pictured Below , what you can't see. Where your wires meet PECO'S main wires . Bad Split Bolts, Rotting /Rusted Connections .

Bad Main Connections Can Cause Blinking Lights, Loss of Power and Damage to TV's , Computers & Appliances.                                                                                                                                                                               

     

                                          


Pay for your Electrical Repairs & Installations with PAYPAL or call 215-9271100 with your Debit or Credit Card . Great way Absentee for Landlords to pay for work.


Electrical Education for our Customers

PHOTOS of  BAD ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS!

 

This is a Common cause of BLINKING LIGHTS & Loss of Voltage, Bad , Corroded Taps & Service Wire ESPECIALLY the Neutral wire outside !

 

Bad Bugs & Neutral wires taken apart . This happens over a period of time .It can take 1-20 years for a fire, but it WILL Happen if not corrected . This is NOT a "Handyman" Repair job, call the professionals. 267-265-7593,  Philadelphia Electric -The Electricians Inc.

This is what YOU CAN NOT SEE . It is up top , where YOUR Lines meet PECO Lines. It is a FIRE Waiting to  Happen, .Not to mention loss of lighting and appliance damage from surges and over & under current.   NO JACKLEG will repair this properly. Avoid FIRES , Hire LICENSED & INSURED Electricians only .

ASK US about ARC FAULT BREAKERS to PROTECT against FIRES BEFORE they can even start !  Read Below about the ARC FAULT BREAKER and how they Protect YOU & your Family .


Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter
(AFCI)
FACT SHEET


THE AFCI
The “AFCI” is an arc fault circuit interrupter. AFCIs are newly-developed electrical devices designed to protect against fires caused by arcing faults in the home electrical wiring.

THE FIRE PROBLEM
Annually, over 40,000 fires are attributed to home electrical wiring. These fires result in over 350 deaths and over 1,400 injuries each year1. Arcing faults are one of the major causes of these fires. When unwanted arcing occurs, it generates high temperatures that can ignite nearby combustibles such as wood, paper, and carpets. Arcing faults often occur in damaged or deteriorated wires and cords. Some causes of damaged and deteriorated wiring include puncturing of wire insulation from picture hanging or cable staples, poorly installed outlets or switches, cords caught in doors or under furniture, furniture pushed against plugs in an outlet, natural aging, and cord exposure to heat vents and sunlight.

HOW THE AFCI WORKS
Conventional circuit breakers only respond to overloads and short circuits; so they do not protect against arcing conditions that produce erratic current flow. An AFCI is selective so that normal arcs do not cause it to trip.
The AFCI circuitry continuously monitors current flow through the AFCI. AFCIs use unique current sensing circuitry to discriminate between normal and unwanted arcing conditions. Once an unwanted arcing condition is detected, the control circuitry in the AFCI trips the internal contacts, thus de-energizing the circuit and reducing the potential for a fire to occur. An AFCI should not trip during normal arcing conditions, which can occur when a switch is opened or a plug is pulled from a receptacle.
Presently, AFCIs are designed into conventional circuit breakers combining traditional overload and short-circuit protection with arc fault protection. AFCI circuit breakers (AFCIs) have a test button and look similar to ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) circuit breakers. Some designs combine GFCI and AFCI protection. Additional AFCI design configurations are anticipated in the near future.
It is important to note that AFCIs are designed to mitigate the effects of arcing faults but cannot eliminate them completely. In some cases, the initial arc may cause ignition prior to detection and circuit interruption by the AFCI.
The AFCI circuit breaker serves a dual purpose – not only will it shut off electricity in the event of an “arcing fault”, but it will also trip when a short circuit or an overload occurs.
The AFCI circuit breaker provides protection for the branch circuit wiring and limited protection for power cords and extension cords. Single-pole, 15- and 20-ampere AFCI circuit breakers are presently available.

WHERE AFCIs SHOULD BE USED
The 1999 edition of the National Electrical Code, the model code for electrical wiring adopted by many local jurisdictions, requires AFCIs for receptacle outlets in bedrooms, effective January 1, 2002. Although the requirement is limited to only certain circuits in new residential construction, AFCIs should be considered for added protection in other circuits and for existing homes as well. Older homes with aging and deteriorating wiring systems can especially benefit from the added protection of AFCIs. AFCIs should also be considered whenever adding or upgrading a panel box while using existing branch circuit conductors.

INSTALLING AFCIs
AFCI circuit breakers should be installed by a qualified electrician. The installer should follow the instructions accompanying the device and the panel box.
In homes equipped with conventional circuit breakers rather than fuses, an AFCI circuit breaker may be installed in the panel box in place of the conventional circuit breaker to add arc protection to a branch circuit. Homes with fuses are limited to receptacle or portable-type AFCIs, which are expected to be available in the near future, or AFCI circuit breakers can be added in separate panel boxes next to the fuse panel box.

TESTING AN AFCI
AFCIs should be tested after installation to make sure they are working properly and protecting the circuit. Subsequently, AFCIs should be tested once a month to make sure they are working properly and providing protection from fires initiated by arcing faults.
A test button is located on the front of the device. The user should follow the instructions accompanying the device. If the device does not trip when tested, the AFCI is defective and should be replaced.

AFCIs vs. GFCIs
The AFCI should not be confused with the GFCI or ground fault circuit interrupter. The GFCI is designed to protect people from severe or fatal electric shocks while the AFCI protects against fires caused by arcing faults. The GFCI also can protect against some electrical fires by detecting arcing and other faults to ground but cannot detect hazardous across-the-line arcing faults that can cause fires.
A ground fault is an unintentional electric path diverting current to ground. Ground faults occur when current leaks from a circuit. How the current leaks is very important.
If a person’s body provides a path to ground for this leakage, the person could be injured, burned, severely shocked, or electrocuted.
The National Electrical Code requires GFCI protection for receptacles located outdoors; in bathrooms, garages, kitchens, crawl spaces and unfinished basements; and at certain locations such as near swimming pools. A combination AFCI and GFCI can be used to satisfy the NEC requirement for GFCI protection only if specifically marked as a combination device.

1 Ault, Singh, and Smith, “1996 Residential Fire Loss Estimates”, October 1998, U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, Directorate for Epidemiology and Health Sciences.
 

Home safety-electrical info

 

 

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How your HOME Electrical System Works
Service Panel
 
 
 An electrical service panel is the main distribution center of your house's electricity. It's where PECO the local utility's service lines hook up with the individual circuits that run throughout the house.

DO NOT WORK at the service panel, don't take chances -- hire a licensed electrician. call 215-927-1100 to reach our Service & Installation Desk .

An electrician is also needed to hook up the service leads that run from your Home to PECO'S Lines back to the Service Panel ,that's also a good time to have the branch circuits & additional lines hooked up. Its always a good idea to have at least one separate line going to each room in the home for any item that creates "heat" when plugged in. Computer, Space Heater, Iron, Plasma or LCD TV ,Stereo . When homes in Philadelphia were wired we did not have the things we have today yet we expect the wiring in the home to support them. Old homes should be updated to avoid fire hazards. Many Old Homes lack the proper Grounded Outlets .Two prong outlets are old & obsolete & should be replaced.


 Breaker Panel Components

 ** This section is not designed to help a ANYONE start work on a service panel. This is for UNDERSTANDING only. Remember, no one should attempt service panel work that is not a TRAINED , Licensed & Insured Electrician. YOU CAN BE INJURED or KILLED. A Handyman or Homeowner is NOT ALLOWED to replace Breaker Panels or do Service Work on Meter Sockets or Main Outside Wires in the City of Philadelphia and Surrounding areas. Most areas of the Country do not allow it either. call 215-927-1100 to Schedule Service**

Here, we'll explain the major parts of the service panel to give you a basic understanding of how it functions.

Three utility service lines come into the panel. Two "hot" leads attach to a two-gang main circuit breaker that connects to two "hot" buss bars.
Individual branch circuit breakers, rated to accept a fixed amperage of electricity, clip or slide onto the hot buss bars.

Each breaker also connects with an outbound "hot" lead that supplies a circuit.

The service panel has a neutral buss bar where the incoming neutral service line connects with the neutral leads of the branch circuits.

The panel should also have a ground buss bar where all the branch ground wires screw in.

In main service panels, the ground buss and neutral buss are connected together to provide a safe grounding path for both busses.  

Circuit Breakers

All newer homes, and many older ones that have been re-wired, will have circuit breakers. Each breaker controls the power to a group of lights, outlets and appliances.
 

If it hasn't been done already, you should label each breaker so you know just what it controls.
 

Circuit breakers protect the wiring and fixtures by turning off the power. If a fixture shorts out, or if a circuit gets overloaded, the breaker will "trip."

That cuts power to the circuit and protect the wires and fixtures from damage. The most common reason for a breaker to trip is too many appliances and lights on one circuit.

A tripped breaker usually looks like it's between the ON and OFF positions. To reset a breaker, turn it OFF and then ON again. If a service panel doesn't have breakers, it probably has fuses.

If a Breaker Trips you MUST allow time for the internal mechanism to cool off and reset .If you try to reset it within 5 minutes of it tripping it will probably just shut right off. We recommend allowing 10 minutes for the Breaker to cool off and then do what we call a "Double Click" , reset the breaker twice, moving it back & forth, "click click, click click" That's what it should sound like.

If your Breaker DOES NOT reset call 215-927-1100 for Assistance & Repair.

 Fuses

Fuses perform the same function as a breaker, except when a fuse blows, it has to be replaced. FUSES are OLD & OBSOLETE in most instances .Many are a Fire Hazard because they allow a Homeowner to replace the fuse with one of a larger size which should NEVER be done. People sometimes put a PENNY behind a fuse. That is outright DANGEROUS and STUPID. Period. This just defeats the fuse purpose and will allow the wires & home to burn BEFORE a fuse would blow.

There are cartridge fuses and screw-in fuses. Cartridges look kind of like a shotgun shell. They mount in a little rack that pulls in and out of a bracket .These can be found in your main Fuse Pullout and usually an appliance line in a home. You should use a FUSE PULLER to replace these .

Screw-in fuses screw in and out like light bulbs. Some have a glass window on top and metal threads on bottom.

When a fuse blows, its internal metal strip breaks and the window may get discolored. Be sure to replace a fuse with the exact same amperage-rated fuse. DO NOT REPLACE any FUSE WITH A DIFFERENT AMP RATING or COLOR . That can create a FIRE HAZARD.

Fifteen and 20 amp fuses are the most common size ratings. Some fuses have a smaller screw base and are called "non-tamperable, type-S" fuses. Common colors for fuses are Blue=15 amp, Red= 20 amp, Green= 30 amp Fuse size is determined by the wire size that the Electricity is flowing through.

The threads vary in size so they can't be accidentally replaced by another type. When you install a fuse, screw it in snug, then give an extra 1/4-turn to make a solid connection.

Other fuses are rated as "slow-blow" or "time delay." They take a little longer to blow and are made to withstand short, extra surges of power -- like a motor starting.
When buying replacements, be sure to get the right fuse types. It's also a good idea to get a couple extra fuses of each type to keep on hand when working on circuits. It is even a BETTER idea to have OLD OBSOLETE FUSES replaced  Call 215-9271100 to Schedule your Service and Professional Upgrade.

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