Most switches and outlets are installed after mechanical rough-ins, drywall and paint are completed on new work. We also replace the old 2 prong outlets with newer 3 prong grounded outlets. We install Brand New Outlets in closed existing walls .
  

When we supply devices like switches and outlets, there are several different types to go through. We are sure to have the device that works properly with the circuit installed with us on our Truck to save the time involved in running back & forth to a Supply House. We use Better Grade Devices , not cheap imports . All Devices we use are UL Listed & Approved

 
The type of switch you install is determined by the circuit's wiring scheme. Outlets are pretty standard, but GFCIs are required in some rooms and box size is another thing to consider. GFCI's are required within 2 feet of water , bathrooms, Laundry Rooms, Outdoors and damp or Wet Locations. GFCI devices SAVE LIVES call 267-265-7593 for more information .

  We Use Properly Sized Junction Boxes

 All switches and outlets (receptacles) need a properly-sized junction (electrical) box. For example, a 2" x 3" box with 3 wires (14 gauge) should be 2 1/2" deep. The same box with 5 wires must be 3 1/2" deep.
Installing an undersized box is probably the most common wiring mistake for do-it-yourselfers and untrained "Electricians"  When in doubt, it's usually best to use a larger box so excess heat will not build up and create a hazard. YES Electrical wires & devices to get warm. They SHOULD NOT BE HOT!

Here's how we calculate minimum box size to use on your installation:

 1.We Count the number of wires for the box. We Don't count outlet/switch pigtails and count all ground wires as one.
2. Take that number, add one for each cable clamp, and two for each device (like a switch or outlet).
3. If the box contains only 14-gauge wires, multiply the total by 2 cubic inches. Or, for 12-gauge wires, multiply the total by 2.25 cubic inches. The result is the minimum allowable volume the box should be. Volumes are usually stamped into the back of the box on the inside.

And you thought you we just picked up ANY box didn't you ?

GFCI Outlets

A GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter, also GFI) is an outlet designed to prevent electrical shock. It's a little bigger than a normal outlet and has two buttons on the front.

These buttons allow you to check the GFCI monthly to see if it's still working properly. Push in the black "Test" button to kill power to that circuit. Restore power by pushing the red "Reset" button.

A GFCI also monitors the current being used by anything plugged into it. Normally, a balance of current passes through the GFCI.

If a misdirection of current, called a "fault to ground," the GFCI senses it and shuts down almost instantly -- which can prevent potentially hazardous shocks.

On the back side of a standard GFCI are four (two sets) terminal screws -- two brass "hot" screws and two silver "neutral" screws.

The bottom brass and silver set -- marked "Line" -- is for incoming wires. The top set -- marked "Load" -- is for wires going to other protected outlets.

The GFCI also has a green "ground" screw on the bottom. That's where the bare copper ground wire connects and provides a path for dangerous current to be safely diverted.

If you DO NOT HAVE GFCI devices installed near water you are leaving yourself subject to injury and lawsuits from those injured at on your property, Inside & outside.

Call The Electricians Inc. 267-265-7593 to install GFCI Devices in your home. 

Single-Pole Switches

A single-pole switch has two brass screw terminals. Both are hot leads for one incoming and one outgoing line. Those are all the wires that connect to the switch. These are typical of most switches in Bedrooms & Bathrooms in most row homes & older singles. hallways & basement stairs usually have 3 way switches, that can be controlled from two places.

The neutral wires tie together separately and the ground wires tie together separately in the box.

Many new switches include a ground screw; others may not have one. We use Switches with a ground screw terminal for your safety. That's where the bare copper or green wire connects.

When a switch is at the end of a circuit (one incoming cable), the neutral/white wire also becomes a hot lead and connects to a terminal. This type of wiring scheme is often called a switch loop.

NOTE: We Install the switch so flipping it UP turns the light ON. This is very important if using a silent, "mercury" switch, because they won't operate properly unless they're installed correctly.

Three-way Switches

Three-way switches can control one light from two different places. Like switches that operate a light from both the top and bottom of a staircase.
 

A three-way switch has three screws. One screw is colored darker than the other two. It's called the "Common" terminal. The other two screws are called "Traveler" terminals.
 

We can wire two three-way switches and a light in a few different ways. It all depends where the light is located: before, between or after the switches.

What we describe is not how all three-way switches are wired. But the following will give you an idea of how they're connected.

For simplicity, let's say the light is after both switches. The first box has two cables: one 14-2 incoming from a power source, and one 14-3 outbound to the second box.

The second box has that incoming 14-3 cable and an outbound 14-2 cable to the light.
In each box, we twist all the ground wires together (add a pigtail in each metal box). Screw on a wire connector (and fasten the pigtail to the back of the metal box).  Sounds Easy Right ?

Connect the two neutral leads in each box with wire connectors.

In the first box, connect the incoming (14-2) hot lead to the switch's "Common" terminal. Connect the outbound (14-3) leads to the two "Traveler" screws. In this case, the traveler leads can be hooked to either terminal.

In the second box, hook up the incoming (14-3) hot leads to the switch's travelers screws.

Finally, hook up the outbound (14-2) hot lead going to the light to the "Common" screw. That completes wiring the switches. Complete the circuit by hooking up the light to the neutral, hot and ground leads.

OK,  Now that you realize that installing a NEW 3 WAY CIRCUIT is not that easy, have we mentioned that REPLACING 3 way switches is WORSE ? Call 215-927-1100 to Replace & Install 3 way's. You will spend HOURS trying to rewire or replace these switches and still get it wrong in most cases . save the hassle, its 65$ & 37.50 per switch in most cases for us to fix or replace the 3 ways. You have better things to do than get Frustrated . The Electricians Inc. 215-265-7593 , your 3 Way Switch Specialists . WHY WASTE TIME ?  Leave it to the PROFESSIONALS.